We’ve seen it rise and fall in popularity over the years, but it never truly went away. In a true sign of the times, tailoring featured extensively in the first Louis Vuitton collection from Virgil Abloh, shown alongside cutting edge streetwear suggesting the two have finally become symbiotic. The suit, and old ideas of formal attire in general, no longer has to have stuffy connotations – it can be worn through choice; it can be sexy and relevant. After all, no matter how casual fashion gets, there are still times when you’ll need to wear one – weddings, fancy parties, big job interviews, they generally all require one. “Many people now only wear formal clothing to weddings and funerals”, owner of Grenson, Tim Little admits. But how can you wear yours without looking old hat? Formal Attire In The Age Of Sportswear Sandro It’s a good job then designers are beginning to herald in a new era for the old faithful. Forget everything you know about suits – this is tailoring for the next generation, it’s tailoring for those who may never have chosen or even needed to wear a suit before. It’s got nothing to do with Savile Row. It kicked off with the spring-summer shows of 2018 – there was Louis Vuitton’s all-white double-breasteds; Dior’s couture-inspired suits worn with nothing underneath; Paul Smith’s voluminous 1980s takes, and Raf Simons’ oversized designs with no shirt or tie in sight. COS What does this mean for you and I? Formal attire has moved on. The suit doesn’t have to be treated like the business accomplice it always has been. Creative director of Savile Row house Gieves & Hawkes John Harrison agrees: “There is definitely an easing up on tailoring”. Yes, there are times when a shirt and tie are needed – those pesky weddings – but you can also replace the shirt altogether, and still be the best-dressed man in the room. From wearing trainers with tailoring to how your suit should fit, here are the new rules of formal attire. The New Rules Of Formal Dress Topman Forget ‘Slim Fit’ Brunello Cucinelli Aim For Comfort Try oversized outerwear over the top for ultimate comfort points. It doesn’t have to be huge, but a coat in the next size up will ensure your suit fits underneath, and it can double as a cosy weekend jacket. Just tailor the sleeve length so you can still see your hands. Canali If You Want Colour, Go Earthy Next Try Trainers Digel Forget Old School ‘Rules’ Of Formalwear Another, and one you’ll read on plenty of styles sites, is that you should never wear a pre-tied bow tie. What purpose does this serve other than to stroke the wearer’s ego that he, in fact, is wearing a ‘real’ bow tie? Well, there isn’t one really. If you’re after a bow tie then, regardless of whether it’s pre-tied or not, go for it. It shouldn’t be untied on the night anyway – you’re not James Bond. Charles Tyrwhitt Smart Knitwear H&M For Shoes, Think Versatility Alternatively try a traditionally formal style – a monk strap or Chelsea boot – but with a chunky commando rubber sole bolted on for ultimate smart casual prowess. Crockett & Jones The Modern Shopping List For Formal Attire